Travels in Africa

In 2016 my wife and I went on a rail journey through Africa - from Cape Town to Dar Es Salaam. I was born and brought up in Zambia, so it was an opportunity to renew my links to the continent.

The trip was organised by Rovos Rail. We spent a few days in Cape Town, on the Atlantic, before boarding the train.

Cape Town is one of South Africa's 3 capital cities and was settled by Europeans since 1500, although it has been inhabited for at least 12,000 years! A cold front blew into the city when we were there, so we couldn't take the boat trip to Robben Island, where past-president Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years.

The famous mountain

Non-violence statue

Ready to board the train

Hex river valley - stunning!

Matjiesfontein - our first stop after Cape Town

That first night was sooooo cold! We had to keep the shower room heater on all night, and the shower was frozen the next morning. But as the day moved on and we got further north, it warmed up beautifully. Next stop was Kimberley, famous for its diamond mines. These were run by De Beers, a company founded by Cecil Rhodes, who played a big part in colonizing southern Africa.

Kimberley (as it used to be!)

Our next port of call in South Africa was Pretoria, the administrative capital of the Republic. It has some startling things to see, among them the Voortrekker Monument and the statue of Nelson Mandela.

Voortrekker Monument

This monument seems quite a strange thing to see in a modern state which has such a multi-cultural aspect now.

Nelson Mandela

This is a stunning memorial to an amazing figure in world history.

Steam loco at Rovos Rail's HQ

Wildlife

After a fantastic wildlife interlude, we made a brief detour by coach into Botswana - a beautiful and peaceful country. Interestingly, its ruler in the 1960s and 70s, Sir Seretse Khama, was married to an English lady - very unusual for that time. We boarded the train again, after going through border formalities on foot.

The train crossed into Zimbabwe in the area known as Matabeleland. I was at boarding school here between 1964 and 1967. It was an interesting time because there were huge political changes occurring. Rhodesia, as it was called then, unilaterally declared its independence from Britain, resulting in sanctions, and ultimately, a long war and internationally-recognised independence.

Victoria Falls remains a massive tourist attraction. The hotel we stayed at reeks of the colonial era - it seems rather inappropriate now. But the falls themselves are a true wonder.

The falls

Statue of David Livingstone, missionary and explorer

Smiling face!

Bridge over the Zambezi river (and the border with Zambia)

Zambezi Gorge

On into Zambia, the country of my birth, and where I lived until I'd finished school at the age of 17. So much had changed - especially the huge fields of sugar cane. But it still looks a beautiful and calm country.

We passed through Mazabuka, where we lived until I was 4, then into the capital Lusaka where I lived between 8 and 17.

Mazabuka

Lusaka station

We headed north and turned right at Kapiri Mposhi, onto the Tazara railway, built and funded by China, to export copper to the coast. Another stop was Kasama, where I lived between the ages of 4 and 5.

Kasama station

The town is notable for the nearby Chisamba falls and the surrender of German forces in November 1918, some days after the armistice was signed.

Chisamba falls

Another smiling face!

And on to Tanzania!

We arrive in Dar Es Salaam, ("home of peace" in Arabic), once the capital of Tanzania. We endure a tough car ride to our beautiful hotel on the Indian Ocena.
But it was worth it for the sounds and views.